OVIEDO Information, Asturias, Spain
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For almost two centuries Oviedo was capital of the first of the Spanish
kingdoms, and the city conserves its history well. Located in the
geographical centre of the region, and perched between rivers in a
privileged setting only a few minutes from the sea, Oviedo is also
a cultured, active, human city, in tune with its people and incorporating
all the subtleties of ancestry into its popular appeal. History has
favoured it with monumental elements, parts of which have been declared
a World Heritage site.
The Cathedral was built on the site of Romanesque or pre-Romanesque
remains, and its tower is an integral part of the city's identity.
Most of the temple's building work took place in the fourteenth and
sixteenth centuries, with a clear predominance of the florid Gothic
style. Despite incorporating later buildings, the three naves, with
chapels and ambulatory, concentrate the attention of the faithful
on the high chapel. Other chapels, the crypt, the sixteenth-century
altarpiece by Francisco Giralte and Juan de Valmaseda, the cloister
and sacristy all pay tribute to the Camara Santa or Holy Chamber of
the San Salvador church, built in the ninth century by Alfonso II
'the Chaste' to house the Holy Ark, with relics from all over Spain
saved from the Islamic invasion. This tradition spread throughout
the Peninsula, and the site became a place of pilgrimage, for a time
competing with Santiago de Compostela.
The Cathedral's architecture was enriched in the twelfth century,
when the pairs of apostles appearing to talk among themselves were
added. To some critics, these sculptures combine the finest qualities
of all the European Romanesque styles. For some time it was thought
that the relics of the Camara Santa were as significant and numerous
as all the rest to be found in Spain. Worthy of mention are: the Cruz
de los Angeles (Cross of Angels), from 808, in gold-plated cedar wood
with precious stones, some dating from Imperial Roman times; the Cruz
de la Victoria (Victoria Cross), from 908, larger than the Cruz de
los Angeles and made entirely from gold, with a cloisonne enamel veneer
and precious stones (since the eighteenth century it has formed part
of the Asturias coat of arms, symbolising the cross of Pelagius in
the battle of Covadonga); and the Arqueta de las Agatas or Chest of
Agates from 910, a gift from Fruela II, with precious stones and embossed
gold, influenced by the Umayyad style.
Around the cathedral are several other interesting buildings. San
Tirso del Real contains pre-Romanesque elements from the ninth century
in the apse, the base of the tower and the occasional wall. The Palacio
de la Rua, from the late fifteenth century, has a certain defensive
appearance, despite being a palace. The balls in the eaves and the
large stone ashlars add character to the decoration. The University
was built between 1572 and 1608 in a classicist style. The architect
Gil de Hontafi6n was involved in the project. An outstanding element
is the elegant and simple courtyard. On the ground floor the gallery
of round arches holds up a structure based on lintels and with profusely
decorated columns.
The Asturias Archaeology Museum is housed in the Benedictine San Vicente
monastery, built in the sixteenth century on the site of older buildings
(possibly from the eighth century). It contains interesting prehistoric
collections (many from Asturias itself), exhibits from the Iron-Age
culture, the Roman era, and all the medieval periods. Housed in two
palaces (from the seventeenth and eighteenth century, respectively),
the Fine Art Museum features paintings by major Asturian artists,
such as Oario de Regoyos and Piñole. The museum is also a fine
example of European painting from the fifteenth century through to
modern times. Many visitors to Oviedo wish to visit the Teatro Campoamor,
the venue for the annual Principe de Asturias awards ceremony. Built
in 1890, the theatre stages major theatrical and operatic performances,
featuring talented artists from both genres.
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