LOCATION: Coastal strip in the municipalities of Arteixo,
Cabaña de Bergantiños, Camariñas, Carballo, Cee,
Fisterra, A Laracha, Laxe, Malpica de Bergantiños, Muxia, Ponteceso
and Vimianzo. The "Rio Anllóns" SCI also spreads
over the municipality of Coristanco.
SURFACE AREA: SCI "Costa da Morte": 11,809 hectares.
SCI "Rio Anllóns": 162 hectares.
ACCESS: From A Coruña, C-552 road to Cee, with an
extension to Fisterra. A-55 motorway to Carballo. Turn-offs and local
roads run parallel to the coast.
SERVICES: Accommodation: Yes. Food: Yes.
Understanding this name ("The Coast of Death") implies
reminiscing memories of the sea. Statistics indicate that at least
150 sea tragedies took place last century, but the collective memory
of this seaboard village, otherwise joyful and vital, has lost count
of the day-to-day frights it has taken. Roman legionaries probably
had the fright of their lives as they witnessed the fall of the
sun beyond the Finis Terrae, where the country of the dead was located
according to Greek mythology. A good many roads, including Saint
James'Way, end in Fisterra.
The journey's end is reached here, where the last rituals of the pilgrimage
are complied with, as the sun bleeds and night has fallen in the rest
of Europe. The Costa da Morte takes up the coastal frontage from the
surroundings of the city of A Coruna to cape Fisterra. It contains
the rias of Camarinas, Corme-Laxe and Lires; and, above all, craggy
cliffs at the ends which define a succession of coves open to the
ocean. The environmental richness lies in the damp areas (salt marshes
and large expanses of sand in Baldaio and the small lake of Traba),
wild beaches (Ba lares in Ponteceso, O Trece in Camarinas, Mar de
Fora in Fisterra and Rostro in Cee), the Sisargas islands facing cape
San Adrian, and other inlets such as Roncudo, Voitra or cape Vilan.
There is a contest between cape Touriñan and Fisterra for the
right to be considered the most occidental end, but this right seems
to belong to the point of A Nave, midway between both.
ROUTES
A complete journey around the Costa da Morte should include all the
small fishing ports, whose structure will give you a clear idea of
the value of their people's marine knowledge: Malpica, Corme, Laxe,
Camelle... The C-552 local road from A Coruña to Fisterra covers
just under 110 km, and represents the starting point for the mai n
turn-offs to the coast. This protected site (SCI) starts in Arteixo,
in the beach of Barrañan. Not far from this site, to the west,
we can find one of the widest ecosystems: the salt marsh and large
expanses of sand in Baldaio. The succession of beaches folds up in
a dune ring.
The small lake, which remains an important refuge for birds, is drained
on one end, through several floodgates which take advantage of the
access roads. The turn-off to Malpica and Ponteceso is taken in Carballo.
These two villages are separated by several coastal tracks, and it
is impossible to ignore the plastic beauty of the vantage points over
the Sisargas islands, a sanctuary for seagulls. Once we reach the
ria of Corme e Laxe, the cove of A Insua and its magnificent beach
can be seen on side, with the Monte Branco and its sandy soil in the
middle, and the mouth of the river Anllóns in the distance.
This river, included in its own right in the Natura 2000 network,
keeps on its banks the best that river beds can offer in these areas.
The route continues through Laxe to the beach of Traba. In addition
to this small lake, it is possible to climb the mountain in search
of penedos or crags: erratic, naturally-sculpted stone formations.
The deviation in Vimianzo, at the foot of the castle, where a complete
live exhibition of traditional crafts takes place in summertime, leads
to Camariñas (See Cabo Vilan).
FLORA: Atlantic scrubs (Erica vagans) and dunes with
Malcomietalia grass.
FAUNA: It is possible to see dolphins (Delphinus delphis,
as well as Tursiops truncatus). Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla), the
Common Murre (Uria aalge) and the Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus
fuscus) in cape Vilan and Sisargas islands. Nesting species may be
found in the small lake of Traba, such as the Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus
arundinaceus).
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