MADRID Information: REAL
MONASTERIO DE LA ENCARNACION |

The short Encarnacion Passage leaves Marina Española Square
and goes along the monastery, one of the great jewels in the architecture
of Madrid. It was founded in the early 17th century by Felipe III
and Margaret of Austria, to keep a promise made if the Moors were
expelled. The buildings were designed by Juan Gomez de Mora, and are
dominated by the church, with the actual convent on the left, inhabited
by a small community of cloistered nuns, and the chaplain's house
on the right with other rooms.
The outside is extremely simple brick and stone work, which contrasts
with the rich decoration inside. Visits can be made in guided groups.
The rooms leading to the cloisters hold a modest collection of paintings
for visitors to e~oy, the most important being a portrait of Felipe
V, a fine St. John the Baptist by Jose Ribera, a Blessed Virgin by
Carrerño, and a historical picture: The delivery of the Princesses
Ann of Austria and Elizabeth de Bourbon, by Van der Meulen. The sculpture
collection includes wood carvings from the school of Gregorio Fernandez,
one of which is an impressive Christ lying down, and an ivory crucifix
on a mahogany base made by Michael Perronius. In the curio section,
it is worth stopping to look at two small display cases depicting
St. Antonio and St. Teresa in their cells.
These are very meticulously worked in wax. However, the monastery
is worth visiting to see the reliquary alone. This is a room with
ceilings decorated by Bayeu, one of the precursors of the style of
Goya. It holds a very large collection of over 1,500 relics ranged
on rosewood shelves, and even contains a phial of the amazing blood
of St. Pantaleon, which turns into liquid every year on the 27th of
July, or when a catastrophe is drawing near. The only original part
of the church left standing is the facade, since the interior was
destroyed by a fire. It was restored in the middle of the 18th century
by Ventura Rodriguez.
Tunnels and passages
As the Oriente Palace was so close to the Encarnacion Convent, it
was easy to build a tunnel which would allow the monarchs to attend
prayers more discreetly. It also gave rise to several less edifying
speculations. For example, it is said that the tunnel branches off
to the Casa de Campo, underneath the Manzanares river, so that the
monarchs could flee at critical times. It is also said that Godoy
used another passage to go from his palace to the Queen's rooms without
being seen. |
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