Basque Country Information:
Enyoy your meal, Sir. - BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY |
THE FLAVOUR OF THE HARBOURS
Taking a stroll through the Basque harbours at meal times means finding
oneself enveloped in the warm smell of grilled sardines or txitxarro
(mackerel). This blue fish, brought in by the coastal fishermen, is
barbecued outdoors, and served fresh and flavoursome, with only a
touch of hot oil, vinegar, garlic and hot pepper. You mustn't miss
the sardines which, though typical of Santurtzi, are to be found all
along the coast, or the anchovies and bigger fish such as the aforementioned
mackerel or ventresca (underside) of bonito. MINIATURE
PLEASURES
You don't have to sit at a table to eat well in the Basque Country.
The ritual known as txikiteo, i.e. going from bar to bar in groups
and drinking txikitos (small glasses of wine) or zuritos (the same
of beer) is now accompanied by the partaking of tempting hors d'oeuvres,
known as pintxos. Although some of these delicacies are simple, other
much more sophisticated versions have earned the name of miniature
cuisine. Many bars proudly exhibit their own creations and specialities.
You'll ,not be able to resist the temptation.
STRANGE-LOOKING DISHES
There are at least two local dishes that never fail to catch the eye
of the outsider. One of these is squid cooked in its ink, hence the
not very typical black sauce. But don't be put off, you'll love it.
The other one is elvers, baby eels that look a bit like worms. Fried
with a hot pepper in an enamelled clay dish, they are absolutely delicious.
It's traditional to eat them on the evening before San Sebastian Day,
but their scarcity and astronomical price is obliging establishments
to use surimi substitutes.
VERY SWEET
Although the cakes and pastries produced in Vitoria-Gasteiz are of
justifiable fame, almost every town and village in the Basque Country
has its own typical sweetmeat. The goxuas, vasquitos and neskitas
of Vitoria-Gasteiz, the custard-filled hojaldres of Laguardia, the
pasteles de arroz and custardfilled canutil/os of Bilbao, the baracaldesitas
of Barakaldo, the kokotxas of Markina, the pantxineta of Donostia
San Sebastian, the opillas given by godmothers from Irun and Hondarribia,
the tejas and xaxus of Tolosa and the rellenos of Bergara are all
well worth the taste.
THE CIDER RITUAL
The habit of going to cider houses or hangars where cider is made
has now become an unusual gastronomic alternative. During the season,
from January to May, these cider houses are enthusiastically attended
by lively crowds who come to drink the cider flowing from a tap in
the barrels or kupelas while eating cod omelette, T-bone steak, walnuts,
quince jelly and cheese. It's normal in the traditional cider houses
to dine standing up, thus making it easier to wander to and from the
kupelas for replenishment.
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